What GE Problems Do We See Most Often?
GE Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working
This is the single most common GE service call we get. Ice maker failure is the most frequently reported GE refrigerator problem across the industry, and we see it constantly across Bridgewater, Raritan, and Somerville. The causes range from simple to more involved.
Start with the water filter. GE recommends changing it every six months, and a clogged filter restricts water flow to the ice maker enough to stop production entirely. If the filter is recent and the ice maker still isn't working, check that the ice maker arm or shutoff switch is in the down/on position — it can be accidentally bumped up during cleaning or restocking.
A specific issue we see on GE French door models: the ice maker fill tube freezes, blocking water from reaching the molds. The arm then tries to sweep ice that was never made and can snap when someone forces it. This issue is a GE-specific design quirk that we've repaired on multiple models across the service area.
If none of these are the issue, the ice maker module itself may have failed and needs replacing.
GE Refrigerator Not Cooling
If the freezer is cold but the fridge compartment is warm, the evaporator fan is the first suspect. The fan moves cold air from the freezer through a vent into the fridge section. When it fails — or when ice builds up around it from a defrost system failure — the fridge warms while the freezer stays cold.
On GE Profile models specifically, we also see control board failures causing this exact symptom. The board stops sending the correct signals to the cooling system, and the result looks like a compressor or refrigerant issue when it's actually electronics. After power surges — common in NJ summer storms — GE Profile refrigerators are particularly susceptible to control board damage. If your GE fridge stopped cooling after a power outage, the control board is the first thing to check.
GE Appliance Stop Working After a Power Surge
This is a pattern we see often, especially in summer. New Jersey thunderstorms cause power surges that damage the main control boards on GE Profile and GE Café appliances. The symptom varies — fridge stops cooling, oven display goes blank, washer won't start — but the root cause is the same: the surge damaged the board's components.
GE's older mechanical models are far less vulnerable to this because there's less electronics to damage. If you have a newer GE Profile or Café appliance and it stopped working after a storm, don't assume the appliance is dead — a control board replacement is often all it needs.
GE Washer Not Spinning or Draining
A failed lid switch is the most frequent cause of issues in older GE top-load washers, which are very common in Raritan and Somerville homes. The lid switch tells the machine it's safe to spin and drain. When it fails, the machine fills and agitates normally but won't transition to spin. It's a $20–30 part and one of the more common repairs we do on older GE washers.
On newer GE front-load models, drainage issues are typically the pump filter or the drain pump itself. GE front loaders have a filter access at the lower front panel — it should be cleaned every few months and is the first thing to check before assuming a pump failure.
GE Oven Not Heating Evenly
Uneven heating in a GE electric oven is almost always a partially failed bake element. The element may still glow in sections but has an internal break that prevents it from reaching full heat or maintaining even temperature across the oven floor. On gas GE ovens, an igniter that's weakening will cause the oven to take much longer to preheat or fail to maintain temperature during longer cooking cycles.
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